Unlike diamonds and colored gems, pearls do not have an internationally accepted grading method. To buy the best pearls at the best price you have to know the value factors for pearls and how to look for them. Here’s what you need to know to buy pearls like a pro:
There are six primary factors that affect the value and quality of a pearl. These are:
- Luster and Orient
- Nacre Thickness
- Color
- Complexion
- Shape
- Size
Luster — A fine pearl must have luster. Luster is the way the pearl absorbs and refracts light from deep within the pearl. Luster is a moonish glow, not a surface reflection. Luster is graded from very high to very low. A pearl with very high luster will be vibrant with sharp, bright and intense light reflection. Pearls with low luster will appear hazy, dull or chalky.
To examine pearls for luster roll them in your hand under different types of medium light and gauge the brightness and sharpness of the reflection. Make sure the luster is uniform within each pearl and between each pearl. Compare different strands of pearls and you will quickly begin to appreciate subtle but important differences. Japanese Akoya pearls set the standard for pinpoint, mirror-like luster.
Orient — Orient is an iridescent play of colors created when the pearl’s nacreous layers act as a prism to divide the penetrating light into the colors of the rainbow. Orient is like a ring around the sun as it burns through the fog, a swirly slide of color that shifts with the movement of the pearl.
Nacre Thickness – You must only buy pearls with thick nacre. Nacre is what the oyster secretes to create the pearl. Pearls with thick layers of nacre are pearls that will last. When the layers of nacre are nicely aligned they capture and reflect light to beautiful effect. Your best indicators of nacre thickness are luster and orient. A pearl with very high luster and beautiful orient will have thick nacre.
Be wary of buying thin nacre pearls that have been “short harvested.” The longer a pearl stays inside the oyster the more layers of nacre it receives. But longer culturing times increase the opportunities for nature to mess with the color, shape and/or surface. Unscrupulous producers “short harvest” their crops to create round pearls with thin nacre coatings.
Thin nacre pearls have dull luster and little to no orient. Look for cracking or peeling surface layers. Examine the drill holes and look for clean, precise holes without rough edges. Roll the pearls in your hand and look for “winking,” or the appearance of the darker shell bead nucleus within. If you see any of these things walk away. Never buy pearls without a written guarantee of quality and satisfaction.
Color — Color is largely a matter of personal preference though some colors are rarer and valued higher.
Complexion — Pearls with the fewest and smallest surface blemishes command the highest prices. Some blemishing is natural and should be expected. Roll the pearl in your fingers and look for movement, which is a blemish that catches your eye when it passes. Avoid pearls with movement.
Shape — The rounder the pearl the higher the price. Be wary of sellers charging full-round prices for off-round pearls – especially with findings or settings that hide part of the pearl. Get it in writing and make sure your satisfaction is guaranteed. All Seabourn Pearls are backed with an unconditional 90-day money back guarantee.
Size — Generally speaking the bigger the pearl the higher the price. Big pearls are harder to produce and therefore rarer. A small increase in size can mean a big increase in price.
There are two other criteria worth mentioning. The first is “the make” or matching. Matching a strand of 30, 40, 50 or more pearls for color, size, shape, luster and orient requires a skillful eye sorting through thousands of pearls. You should expect to pay a premium for matched strands, especially in rare colors such as aubergine and peacock Tahitian pearls, deep gold South Sea pearls, and baroque freshwater pearls in single colors.
The final value factor is what we call “
Simpatico.” To be worn well pearls must complement a woman, her skin tone, the color of her eyes and hair. Pearls must be worn to know if they fit. When they do we call them simpatico.
To buy pearls like a pro look them over carefully with your eyes and hands and make a quick judgment about whether or not you find them beautiful and alluring. Your pearls will call to you. Value is ultimately a function of supply and demand. Buy what you like. You may compromise on any value factor with the exception of luster. It’s lustrous – or leave it.
Buy pearls from someone you trust who specializes in pearls. When you invest in pearls get a detailed bill of sale that specifies color, luster, size, shape, complexion, etc. Insist upon a written guarantee of quality and satisfaction that entitles you to a cash refund (not store credit). Get a guarantee. Get it in writing. Or get out of there.
info & images credit:
http://seabournpearls.com/guide-to-buying-pearls/
